This incredible bread recipe came to me through Baking with the American Harvest, a beautifully laid-out baking journal, published bi-monthly by Cindy Mushet, during the early to mid-nineties. This was before the popularity of blogs and what internet now offers with its vast information on food. 1
Background of Baking with the American Harvest
Back then, she originally mailed out a one-year subscription (six issues) from her base in Santa Monica, California, for $24/year; later it became four issues for $18 a year. Each of these editions came printed on stiff, rich Manila paper with snippets of historical images scattered throughout; the recipes were tried and true, written in their timely context. (While this creative lady was publishing this unique newsletter, I was placing food in the midst of its social/cultural history for popular magazines and educational journals.)
Correspondence with Cindy Mushet in the 1990’s
When examining my files recently, I discovered two letters from Ms. Mushet, dated the winter of 1994-95, in which she was responding to my request for her back issues, featuring a two-part review of chocolate (for my inspired version of one of these recipes, see Chocolate Scones).
This correspondence delighted me, for she was congratulating me on finding a fun and unique niche in the food industry, with my catering of events featuring historical foods. This is my version of dinner theatre, in which the audience partakes, by eating the documented ailments, while I dressed in period costume use third-person to relay the full impact, of what Ms. Mushet refers to as “anthropological adaptations”. (For more on my early business, see About, Serungdeng Kacang, Bolitos de Chocolat y Coco, Scottish Oat Scones, and Cocoa Bread,)
History of Blogging
Blogging changed the world! On-line publishing replaced hard-copy journals and newsletters, such as the above. After a slow start, blogging spread rapidly during 1999 and the years following. Wikipedia states that the early part of the second millennium marked the role of blogs becoming increasingly more main stream; it was then that politicians, political consultants, and news services began using them as tools for outreach and opinion forming. (Many believe that Watergate played the initial role in this development.) Today, blogs are used effectively in many diverse fields, with food not being least among these. 2
Three “Generations” of Struan Bread: Reinhart’s, Mushet’s, and Mine
In my blog entry today, I share Ms. Mushet’s struan bread, which she declares is legendary Scottish harvest bread, originally published by Peter Reinhart. In my version of this, I like to use freshly ground flour which greatly enhances this staff of life, but is totally optional. I also give detailed, foolproof instructions for the mess-free mixing of the dough in a food processor, followed by the kneading of it by hand, with little or no flour on a counter top. Clean, clean, clean!
This bread is a winner, with everything but the kitchen sink in it; for among its grains, it calls for cooked brown rice, uncooked polenta, oats, and wheat bran, along with much more. It often graces my larder, which is always stocked with fresh, homemade bread. Enjoy!
- Cindy Mushet, Baking with the American Harvest, 5 volumes (Santa Monica, CA: Cindy Mushet, 1992-1997).
optional grinding of flour with a Kitchen Aid attachment
Struan Bread Yields: 1 loaf or 20 small rolls. Total prep time: 3 hr/ active prep time: 30 min/ baking time: 30 min/ inactive prep time: 2 hr.
3 1/2 tsp active dry yeast (Costco carries 2 lb packages of Red Star Active Dry Yeast; this keeps a long time in a sealed container in the freezer; it’s best when warmed to room temperature.)
1/4 tsp sugar
1 3/8-1 1/2 c tepid water, 110-115 degrees
2 1/2 c whole wheat flour (Bob’s Red Mill is high quality.)
1 c unbleached white flour (Optional: may grind 2 1/3 c organic hard red spring wheat berries to make the total 3 1/2 c fresh flour.)
1/4 c uncooked polenta
1/4 c rolled oats (Organic is only slightly more expensive in bulk; best price is at our local Winco.)
1/4 c brown sugar, packed
1/6 c wheat bran
1 tbsp poppy seed
2 tsp salt (Himalayan, pink, or Real Salt is critical for optimum health; a fine grind Himalayan salt is sold cheaply at Costco.)
1/4 c cooked brown rice (May freeze individual 1/4-c baggies of leftover rice ahead of time, to thaw as needed.
Spay oil and oil, of your choice, for oiling a 13-gal plastic bag, used in raising bread
If grinding your own flour, begin to do so now (see above photo).
- Place 1/4 c lukewarm water (110-115 degrees) in a small bowl; stir in yeast and 1/4 tsp sugar. Let sit in a warm place, until creamy, foaming, and nearly double in size, for about 10 minutes (see photo).
- When yeast is proofed, place flour and all dry ingredients, as well as rice, in an 11-cup-or-larger-food processor; blend well.
- Add proofed yeast and 1 1/4 c tepid water to flour mixture. (Fresh-ground flour, however, only calls for 1 1/8 cups of water, as this is a coarser grind, not absorbing as much moisture.) Turn machine on and
knead for 35 seconds; turn off and let dough rest for 4 minutes (see photo). This resting period cools dough, which is essential as processing increases heat, and too much heat will kill the yeast.
- After resting for 4 minutes, turn on the processor again; knead dough for 35 seconds more (see photo below). Take out and knead by hand for about 8 minutes, or until satiny smooth, minus the lumps from the grains; see
bottom photo for dough before and after kneading by hand. (As wet dough readily sticks to hands, rinse and dry them as needed to facilitate easy kneading. Store-bought flours are a finer grind; therefore they absorb the moisture more readily and won’t be so sticky. Much moisture is absorbed while kneading by hand-this is especially true with freshly ground flour. Ideally it should be firm, but supple when finished. These instructions should be foolproof, but IF needed, do the following: if dough remains quite wet and sticky, after kneading by hand for several minutes, slowly add more flour to your board as you knead. If, however, it is very stiff-too stiff to knead easily-place it back in processor, and knead in 1 tbsp water.
If called for, which is unlikely, repeat this step until severe stiffness is gone, it is flexible, and kneading by hand is facile; CAREFULLY rest dough, so as not to overheat. When hand-kneading is finished, it should be firm, smooth, not sticky.
- Place prepared dough in a 13-gal plastic bag, in which several tbsp of oil have been evenly distributed; let rise in a warm place for 60 minutes. (Only if using freshly ground flour, punch dough down and let rise it for an additional 30 minutes, to make lighter bread with this coarser flour).
- Punch dough down and form loaf-or rolls-and place in a bread pan sprayed with oil. Loosely cover with a piece of plastic wrap, which has also been sprayed with oil.
- Let rise until doubled, for about 50-60 minutes. Important: 30 minutes into the rising process, preheat oven to 400 degrees, to insure oven is ready when it is time to bake.
- When doubled, bake loaf for 27-30 minutes, or until bread sounds hollow when tapped on bottom (rolls will take 20 minutes). Cool on rack. Enjoy this power-packed bread!